Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
